Wire Monkey DIY Project: Shock Mount

Shock mounts are expensive. Here is my cheaper solution.

Step 1. Get a 3" ABS plastic pipe fitting like this one (about $5). It has a 1.5" goose neck off the top, but that will be cut off. This fitting is best because it is longer and beefier than the standard 3" slip coupling. ABS plastic couplers can be found in Lowe's Hardware or similar joint.

Step 2. You're going to need a hack saw, coping saw, drill with an approximately .25" bit to pull this part off. The end rings will end up being about 3/4" thick and the base will be about 2" wide.

Use a hack saw to cut down into the ends of the coupler about 3/4" from each end. You will cut down until you have about 2" left for a base (across the bottom). Be careful because it's easy to let the saw drift off to one side so take your time. Once itt looks like you have about 2" left for a base width, drill a few small holes, large enough to get a coping saw blade through, in the corners so you can make the perpendicular cuts.

Roughly, this is what you'll have. You can sand the edges smooth later.

Step 3. Now you want to make the notches that will hold the rubber bands.

I made them with two small notches about a half inch apart. As you can see here, you will make four notches for each rubber band about 3/16" into the inside of each ring for the rubber bands to grip.

Here I've completed 8 notches on one ring that will hold one end of the shotgun microphone. Repeat this for the other side. Note that you will have to approximate the notches so that they line up the rubber bands in a nice even criss cross. I used a hack saw to cut the notches and then wiggled a sharp exacto knife to cut them out.

Above you can see it with one ring completed.

Here is the completed shock mount. Notice that I criss crossed the bands around the microphone, a Sennheiser MKH416T. These are standard hobby rubber bands but you could use swank black rubber ones or bungee type if you like. It looks just like the Sennhiser MZS-CAM mount, but larger, beefier and ready to handle a large shotgun microphone.

Here is a view of the bottom. Now for the mounting.

I chose to mount it to a standard microphone holder, the kind that screws onto a mic. stand, since I had a bunch lying around. First I cut off the "wings" of the mic. holder, ie: the plastic parts that actually hold the microphone. Than I drilled several holes in a line through the base of the shock mount in the middle. A drill press came in handy and allowed me to control the drill and use it to grind out a nice even space for the mic. holder piece to slide down through. You will have to take the mic. holder off of the screw mount by unscrewing the black slotted screw pictured below. I didn't take pictures while doing this process so I hope all of this is clear or you can deduce what needs to be done via the images.

I then drilled 4 holes into the base which is to hold the mic. holder very securely to the base of the shock mount. I wanted a no-compromise bond and I also wanted to be able to replace the mic. stand head in the future if it should break so epoxy or another solution was not an option.

You can see from this side view the thin aluminum plate I cut from some scrap to use as a brace.

This top view of the base plate shows the four locking nuts that hold the aluminum plate against the top of the mic. holder. This is very secure and the shock mount is still exceptionally light weight. Now for the boom pole.

Finally, here is a rear view of the shock mount showing the plate clamping down on the mic. holder.

Here it is mounted on the boom pole.

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